We asked Paul Bui (ex-Oyster Editor and stylist/journalist) to give us his take on the much-hyped final show of the week... 

Out of all the fashion weeks I’ve attended in Sydney, there has never been more anticipation for a show than that of Friday night, when ‘L’Enfant terrible’ of Aussie fashion – ksubi – prepared to restamp the runway with that dirty footprint that has become so ingrained in the consciousness of the fashion world. Closing the week off is always a prestigious slot. And coupled with an illustrious yet admittedly rocky history, there was much to expect from this iconic label and what many are calling their comeback.

Entering the Royal Hall of Industries, the first thing I noticed was the grand level of production. The four giant screens, elevating lights, a circle spanning around the hall and mysterious panels in the middle decked in garbage bag material and graffiti, conveyed the feel of an arena rather than a runway. But of course, an arena seems a more fitting stage for a brand that always thinks big.

The clothes on the other hand proved a stark contrast to the production. While a few seated next to me expected flamboyant showpieces, I on the other hand was excited to see a collection that reflected Ksubi’s roots yet marked a new, sleeker direction for the label. Primarily consisting of denim in different textures – printed, moulded, feathered – the clothing was streamlined, sophisticated and most importantly smart. White jeans with revealing panels and twists along the thighs, blazers with a baked bean ‘has-bean’ motif and sheer floor length dresses with the One via Zero mantra all made an appearance. Emma Balfour also wore what would be the first of many crinkled loose fitting dresses, each with different prints inspired by John Vindola’s ‘Vandalism’ series. My favourite piece, however, would have to be a floor length white denim vest with distressed feathered detailing down the sides – classic ksubi yet, refreshingly different.

On the whole it was a cohesive, strong and wearable collection, depicting uniforms for the future Ksubians (without being too referential). Ksubi is such a stalwart brand and while in the past, they may have resorted to shock tactics, I was really happy to see a presentation that embraced the modern simplicity of the clothes without too much theatrics. No rats, no jumping models, no Erin Wasson. Just a sophisticated collection that I am certain we will see on the streets and in the magazines not before too long. From a stylist’s point of view, there are many things I can work with and from a consumer’s point of view; there are many pieces I can covet. As I said, I believe it was a very smart collection. Was it a comeback? I don’t think they were really ever gone. But if the show reaffirmed anything, it was to remind us that that dirty footprint – as evident on one of those crinkled dresses – is here to stay. And we wouldn’t want it any other way.

By Paul Bui – stylist/journalist http://www.paulbui.tv

All runway and backstage images shot by Cara Stricker, see more here.

Paul Bui as shot by thecobrasnake

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