Yesterday the French celebrated the beginning of the French Revolution with Bastille Day. The national holiday symbolises the uprising of the modern nation and the reconciliation of the French people. To celebrate we look at the highest artform of fashion - the French Couture shows held last week in Paris showcasing the Fall 09 Couture collections of Chanel, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier.

This season was a sign of the times with a much more reserved and wearable group of collections than the traditionally unwearable fashion as art that couture is famous for. Also absent from the Paris shows was US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, the notable no-show putting the rumourmill into overdrive...

There was no huge Australian contingency on the catwalk for the couture this season, Abbey Lee Kershaw appeared for Chanel and Givenchy but Myf Shepherd and Catherine McNeil were both absent.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Inspired by images of Monsieur Dior presiding over half dressed models amongst backstage mayhem in the 1950s, John Galliano wanted his Fall 09 Couture 'Fever in the Cabine' collection to have a sense that in the backstage frenzy models had to walk the catwalk only half dressed in their looks, revealing their corsets, sheer petticoats, lace knickers, suspenders and stockings. Dior's decision to downsize their generally overly extravagant shows to an intimate viewing at Dior HQ was apparently not a money saving move (Dior's Couture sales are showing a double-digit increase, and according to Dior the 4000 roses in this year's show equalled the cost of their former larger affairs) but demonstrated a return to the traditional private couture viewings where guests can view the designs up-close.

Dior's famous hourglass silhouette reigned supreme in the form of the trademark peplum Bar belted at the waist and cut at the hip, draped bubble skirts, corseted cinched waists and full-skirted evening gowns in popping fruity palette of lemon, raspberry, orange and lime, with a dash of leopard. Dior sent a clear post-show message that the solo skirts and jackets will indeed be available to be paired with their matching counterpart and the sheer petticoats will be available sensibly lined.

CHANEL

Four white oversized Chanel No. 5 perfume bottles adorned the centre of the Chanel stage, eventually opening to reveal Lara Stone and her groom in the finale. After a hugely successful Resort 2010 collection less than two months before, Karl Lagerfeld kept things relatively low-key, presenting the largest collection with 65 looks in total, featuring a lot of ruffled chiffon dresses with long trains attached, lace stockings, lace-up booties and touches of fur and leopard print.

CHRISTIAN LACROIX

In an emotional show thrown together at the last minute on a shoestring budget and only made possible by the donated time of a loyal network of seamstresses, shoemakers, embroiderers, milliners and jewellers, Christian Lacroix presented his Fall 09 Couture collection amidst speculation that this could very well be the last from the label. The reverred design house has gone into administration and without a knight in shining armour will be forced to close at the end of this month.

The show was an effort to lure possible backers, and displayed a more wearable collection than typically seen in Lacroix's couture collections, whilst continuing to demonstrate the talent that has earnt Lacroix's place as the master of couture. A sophisticated palette of mostly black and midnight blue in embroidered cape jackets, fur collared coats, bejewelled lace, satin bows and very cute velvet umbrella shade hats. To lighten the mood, the models swapped their usually grim expressions for more optimistic expressions. Oh to have the spare $100 million needed to give them a lifeline.

GIVENCHY

The inspirations behind Riccardo Tisci collection was an unusual mix of tribal Morocco and equestrianism, blending middle Eastern veils and gold jewels and embroidery with equestrian velvet jackets, strips of leather and turtleneck gowns. Abbey Lee Kershaw walked in a stunning ruby bejewelled bodysuit over a flowing cream strapless top and white slouch pants.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 09 Couture display was an ode to the silver-screen heriones of yesteryear, with Lara Stone opening to the music of Twentieth Century Fox as Brigette Bardot, followed the likes of by Rita Hayworth, Greta Garbo, Catherine Deneuve and Jean Harlow, resulting in a mixed bag and hair styles and makeup. Two Australian models featured in the show, Melburnian up and comer Emily Trimble-Thompson (bottom right in the crimson pinstriped pantsuit) and the stunning Alexandra Agoston parading the blue crocodile overalls and huge fur coat.

THE BRIDES

In keeping with couture tradition, every show is closed by 'the bride', at Jean Paul Gaultier the bride materialised surrounded by projections of famous Hollywood faces, each face projected on the bride in turn, Lara Stone closed the Chanel show making out with her groom as the Chanel bottle closed around them, the Givenchy bride featured Mariacarla Boscono with a crown of gold spikes, while the Lacroix show closed in a religious vision of exquisite embroidery and gilded headdress.

THE ACCESSORIES

Crocodile and snakeskin handbags at Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier, thigh-skimming belted boots by Gaultier, lace stockings and lace-up booties at Chanel, purple mid-length leather gloves at Dior, bejewelled finger gloves at Chanel, lingerie inspired heels Dior heels, fur collars at Gaultier, gold Moroccan headpieces at Givenchy, long fingerless gloves, flowers in hair and crimson and leopard velvet heels at Chanel.

Images via Style.com




Posted by jenna ...

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